Kauai in Steps- Part 2

Before I continue with our daily events, I have to talk about Kauai's roosters.  They are everywhere!  In large numbers!  And, they are beautiful.  Their vibrant plumage is stunning and I've got way too many photos of them to prove it.  I love to hear their cock-a-doodling in the distance.  It is musical.  However, they can be a bit annoying when that crowing wakes you at 11:30 pm when you've just been asleep for an hour.  I thought they were supposed to only crow at the crack of dawn but a quick Google has discredited that falsehood.

Day 5 - 18,241 steps

Today we headed off to the Wailua area in the east to hike the Kuilau Ridge Trail.  This was an easy 4.5 mile round trip along a ridge with views of Mt. Waialeale and Mt. Nounou as well as the Makaleha range and its highest peak, Kapehuaala.  The plush green foliage in the valleys in between were quite breathtaking and the eucalyptus tree grove we hiked through was very cool.  We didn't realize that the Kuilau Ridge Trail meets up with the Moalepe Trail that starts from the other direction so we continued on it for a ways before doubling back making our hike about 6.5 miles.

We stopped to snorkel at Lydgate Beach Park on the way back.  Now, I knew my husband was a wine snob and I know he is a food snob but today I learned that he is also a snorkel snob.  This beach has a man made lava rock barrier creating a couple of pools where the strong surf cannot get in.  This was built in 1964 by Albert S. Morgan, a native Hawaiian who was inspired when he saw a similar protected swimming area while travelling to Sorrento, Italy.  This wall makes it safe for a 3 year old to snorkel there and Terry thought it was too lame for him.  I went in anyway and was pleasantly surprised by the many fish there were to see.

After dinner a repeat trip to the ice cream shop was in order; tonight's flavour, salted caramel peanut butter.  

Day 6 - 12,730 steps

This morning we relaxed, reading our books letting the rain subside.  After breakfast we went for a 2 mile urban walk/stroll to Spouting Horn Park and back.  We had been there once before but we needed to get some steps in and you never tire of watching the waves crash into the shore hitting this black outcropping of lava rock and watching water spray up through various blow holes.

Next we packed up and headed off for a day of exploring and snorkelling.  We headed west again and our first stop was a return trip to Hanapepe.  This time we browsed a couple of artisan shops (where I saw this informative book about Hawaii)

and walked across the Swinging Bridge before heading to Port Allen for a nice lunch and excellent craft beer at the Kauai Island Brewing Co., (where I saw this funny sign)

then a quick stop at Glass Beach.  This is literally a beach of sea glass.  

The beach's regular rock is basalt, but the sea glass formed after years of discarded glass here in this old industrial area.

Next we went snorkelling at nearby Salt Pond Beach which lies adjacent to the only natural salt ponds on Kauai. These Salt ponds are strictly for the use of Native Hawaiians. Few places in Kauai are safe enough for us to snorkel in winter and this beach provided a safe sheltered bay to see a few fish.  No one wants their trip ruined by a rip current!  As I looked around to find Terry's snorkel poking out of the water I was reminded of past holidays with the whole family where all 5 of us would be out snorkelling.  I love snorkelling!  But the mother in me was always on alert making sure I knew where everyone was.  Breath, kick, glide, admire the angelfish and coral, stop, look around, count.......1,2,3,4 ducklings, continue, stop, count, 1,2,3...........panic, hyperventilated, swallow some salt water.......4, breath, kick, glide, enjoy some puffer fish and Dory fish.  Such is the life of a mother always watching out for her ducklings. :)

After reading in the sunshine for awhile we continued on towards our "home away from home" and stopped to snorkel again in Poipu near the Beach House.  This spot was loaded with many varieties of very colourful fish.  Our best snorkelling so far this trip.  The long narrow needlefish at the surface were barely getting out of our way!

Day 7 - 23,401 steps (but probably 29,600)

Fun, fun, fun day today!  Great hike on the Napali Coast Trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach and Hanakapi’ai Falls.  My favourite hike so far this trip.  

This 8 mile round trip hike was slippery, muddy, rocky but fantastic.  At one point we debated turning back anticipating that coming back down his slippery, muddy mess would be crazy.  Instead we found some walking sticks and continued on.  The sticks helped a lot but the trail also improved.  The views of the rugged Napali Coast were breathtaking and our break at Hanakapi'ai Beach was lovely.  There was no swimming there due to very high surf.  A sign warned that 83 people and counting have died there thinking the rules don't apply to them.  But the view is beautiful and it I so fun just to watch the swelling waves crash into the shore and beach.  Lots of cute cairns along the beach.  Who doesn't like cairns?!

After our break at the beach we headed on to the falls.  This trail was technically very difficult but not that bad cardiovascularly.  We passed through some interesting mangrove and bamboo groves.  The bamboo was huge; probably about 5 or 6 inches in diameter. 

 The falls drop 300 feet and our swim in the pool at the bottom was very refreshing! 

 We retraced our steps back down, again crossing the stream 3 or 4 times, sometimes quite precariously.  This hike took us 4 hours and 45 minutes not counting our long relaxing breaks.

After acquiring our very helpful walking sticks I discovered something new about my Fitbit.  Seems when you are using the stick and wearing the Fitbit on your wrist, it doesn't count your steps accurately.  Because you plant the pole once for every 2 or 3 steps, it does not register all of your steps.  On one experiment I went 100 steps and it only counted 34.  So, that is why I've got the dual count at the top of Day 7.  I think I'll wear it on my belt or something next time I use hiking poles.

Hey, I've also got another "snob" story.  You guessed it; Terry again.  He is a granola bar snob.  I can have 4 or even 5 types of granola bars in my pack and the only brand that he likes is the "Kind" ones.  I found these at Costco in Lihue but I'm not sure we've got them back in Vancouver. 😟

After our hike we stopped to wash all the mud off our legs (and there was a lot!) at Hanalei Bay before stopping for a refreshing beverage and some tasty nachos at the Kalypso Island Bar and Grill in Hanalei.  This was our second visit to Hanalei, this time not during a deluge.

Day 8- 10,173 steps

Our last day. :(  We went out for a first morning snorkel by the Beach House again.  Very fun but I still didn't see the turtle that some other people saw one day.

Back home to pack and do all the necessary cleaning and garbage removal from the condo. After checking out we went out for breakfast at La Spezia in Koloa.  Had some very yummy french toast stuffed with bacon and brie.  Awesome!

Then we spent the day lounging and snorkelling at Poipu Beach.  A nice relaxing day.  We enjoyed happy hour at Brennecke's Beach Broiler.

And then we were treated to a beautiful sunset at Poipu Beach on our last night.

Next we headed to Lihue where we had dinner then headed for the airport for our redeye flight home.

Great trip!

Kauai in steps - Part 1

Day 1, Jan 28, 2016...........Omg, just as I typed that I almost started the year with "19", yikes!  It could be because I'm almost through my refreshing Longboard Lager or because I just read something about the Challenger exploding on this day in 1986 or.........it could just be because I'm losing it.  I will accept any of those explanations.

Anyhooo, Day 1, 26,017 steps.
We started our first day on Kauai with a little sleep in..........which means I slept in while my "always up early" husband, Terry, patiently waited for me to get up.  Coffee was ready when I awoke and we lounged for awhile reading our Ipads.  Me to see what was new in the FB world (I'm so pathetic) and Terry reading world news.  Terrible story in the news today; 3 young female suicide bombers in Nigeria killed themselves and 12 others.  The world is a sad place as we bask in the sun here in Paradise.

We arrived late last night so we had no groceries yet so off we walked to the local Kukui'ula (don't you just love Hawaiian names?!) Shopping Center for breakfast.  Thankfully, I convinced Terry to share the breakfast burrito and side of spicy potatoes but it still cost us $27US once we threw in a couple of coffees.   Another  "yikes" considering the Canadian dollar is currently worth 71cents US.
Next we headed off for our first hike, the Maha'ulepu Heritage Trail.  The trail head was only about a 5 min drive from our condo. This was a lovely 3 mile trail along the coastline sometimes right on the beach and sometimes up on higher ground with occasional cliffs and constant beautiful scenery. We even walked right along the side of a posh fairway along the way watching anxiously for rogue balls.
One highlight was seeing a very large monk seal sunbathing on the beach.  While observing a respectable distance we took some great photos.  There are only about 1,200 monk seals remaining and many of them swim in the waters of Kauai.   With the 3 mile return our hike today totalled about 6 miles and we spent just under 3 hours enjoying it.

Our next stop was Costco in Lihue to stock up on groceries for the week.  We did well sticking to mostly healthy choices (I resisted all the chocolate and macadamia nut products--------flashback to circa 1988, when we spent 14 days in Hawaii and I gained 10 pounds------third yikes!) to keep us fed for most of our dinners and several of our lunches while we are out and about exploring the island.  We were surprised to see that Kirkland now has their brand on some wines so we are giving one of their New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs a try.

Once our groceries were safely chilling in the condo refrigerator we walked down to the nearest beach for a nice dip in the ocean.  A great first day here on Kauai.

Day 2 - 23,745 steps.

Today started with a nice breakfast of yogurt and blackberries due to the fact that we have to eat yogurt each and every day, at least once a day to use up the Costco size package that we purchased.

Then it was off to the Waimea Canyon, known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. This 14 mile long and 1 mile wide canyon is beautiful but realistically cannot compare to the Grand Canyon.

After our first stop for coffee at the cute historic town of Hanapepe, we continued on the lovely drive with stops at some scenic lookouts before arriving at the trailhead of the Awa'awapuhi trail, the main event  of our day.  This 3.25 mile trail, touted by some on the Internet as the "best hike on the Hawaiian Islands" was a little slippery at first but got drier as we went along so our footing got steadier and steadier. It was mostly downhill, starting at over 4000 ft and ending with a beautiful view along the Napali coast, a mere 2300 ft above the shore.  Once we made the steady climb back to the car, we had done 6.5 miles in just over 3 hours which included our half hour picnic at the top.  A wonderful hike with a stellar view!




As we headed back towards our home base in Poipu, we decided we might as well drive as far west as we could on the Island as we won't likely be coming back this way.  We stumbled upon Polihale State Park.  It was 4.8 miles off the main highway on a rough dirt road.  The park's website recommended using 4 wheel drive so we weren't going to make the trek.  But then when we saw the raving reviews on tripadvisor we decided it was a must see.  It did not disappoint!  The drive was not that bad since it was dry and nowhere near as bad as some of the roads we drove on in Costa Rica.  The Park is a hidden gem in a remote area; 140 acres and a 7 mile long beach; the biggest gold sand beach on Kauai with beautiful views all around.  There were 100 foot sand dunes, an amazing view of the end of the Na Pali coast and enormous crashing waves..........no swimming here!

On our return we stopped at the Kauai Coffee Company, catching it just before closing.  This plantation is the US's largest coffee producer with over 4 million coffee trees grown on 3100 acres.  We sampled some nice brews and bought some ground "Mundo Novo" to enjoy back at our condo.

Day 3 - 16,389 steps (although this is a bit of a cheat since I attached my Fitbit to my ankle so we'd get credit for biking)

Today we headed to the Eastern side of the Island and stopped in Kapaa where we rented bikes from "Coconut Cruisers", aptly named since this side of the Island is known as the Coconut Coast. We enjoyed an easy, relaxing and scenic ride along the coast on the Kapaa  Bike Trail, a paved multiuser trail enjoyed by many bikers, joggers and walkers.

We rode about 10 miles today, to the end of the path and back, passing many beautiful beaches then went off roading down to Donkey Beach where we had a snack, enjoyed the seclusion and saw many whales in the distance.  After a sudden but short lived downpour, we found a shady spot on Kapaa Beach and enjoyed our lunch all the while spotting whales frolicking once again.  Today's refreshment complements of the Kona Brewing Co. was the Big Wave Golden Ale. Yum!

Next we headed north for more exploring stopping at the Kileau Lighthouse which is a particularly scenic spot and the Hanalei Valley Lookout which is a spectacular view of patchwork quilt fields of taro paddies.

It got rainier and rainier as we ventured to the north shore and by the time we got to the quaint town of Hanalei where we wanted to wander around for a look, there was "Deep Cove" like rain that kept us at bay so we headed home to Poipu stopping only for a quick look at Wailua Falls.

Day 4 - 17,085 steps

Today started with a 3 mile walk around our neighbourhood checking out the beaches in front of the Sheraton and other posh resorts before heading out to breakfast at TR, Tortilla Republic.  Terry had read that this place had the best breakfast in the area and it was indeed very good.

Since the forecast was for rain in all but our area of the island, we had a local beach day.  We packed up all the necessities and drove to Gillin Beach just 5 miles down the road.  But what a road it was to get there!  This time, the potholes were right up there in comparison to the road to Monte Verde in Costa Rica.........not for the faint at heart driver or for anyone who values their oil pan. 😉
We made it though and enjoyed an afternoon of snorkelling, relaxing and reading.  Very
enjoyable.

Our evening consisted of an evening walk for ice cream; coconut macadamia nut fudge, yum! Then a walk to the beach to stargaze.  Beautiful sky here since there is so little light pollution.

Fantastic day to mark half way in our trip.

My Juan de Fuca Experience----Aug 7 to 10, 2014

For anyone reading this for useful information about the JDF Trail, read only the BOLD print if you want to skip the fluff.

How much does a roll of toilet paper weigh?  I know 9 ladies who would know the answer--4 oz.  That might not sound like much to most of you but that is 1/4 lb!  We are the group of 9 (let's say "middle aged") ladies who set out to backpack the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail.  But trust me, I only took a 1/2 oz, partial roll of TP (and that includes the plastic bag to protect it from moisture).  Who goes through a whole roll of TP in 4 days?! (and at the end of the day, you didn't really need it; all campsites had pit toilets with TP and hand sanitizer; although it's good to carry a little, just in case they run out)

The JDF trail is a 47 km wilderness hiking trail on the SW coast of Vancouver Island, BC in some of the most rugged and beautiful  rainforest coastline in the world. (IMHO)

Now before I start to describe for you my experience on this magnificent adventure, I'd like to introduce to you, my 2 best friends:

And I should also point out my least favourite of the group:

But seriously, here is the one who invited me on this trip and I'm so thankful she did.  My good friend, Denise, invited me to help her friend Susan, fulfil a bucket list item for her birthday this year.  I quickly accepted and didn't really think I would know any of the other women.  I knew Susan slightly through Denise and as she named off the others I soon realized that I had some kind of community connection with several of them.  The remaining 2,  I met on our practice hike.

Day 1-- We started our journey at the China Beach trail head, hiking 2km to Mystic Beach where we enjoyed our first encounter with the sea and the beautiful beach there.  This was our breaking in period where we came to terms with the size and weight of our heavy packs weighing in at anywhere between 28 and 38 lb.  Again, this may not sound like much to some of you but at 28 lb, that is well over the recommended pack size of "25% of your body weight" for the smallest of our pose.  Here is our group in the parking lot as we were about to set off:

From Mystic Beach we hiked 6 km more that day to our first campsite, Bear Beach.  This was moderately challenging but enjoyable terrain to get us started but we weren't making great time.  It didn't take long before we had our first "incident".  Joanne got  not 1, but 3 wasp stings; but she was a trooper and there was very little "to-do" and we continued on.  In an effort to keep us moving, our fearless leader, Jocelyn, said "I don't need to look at the ferns".  We were thankful to get our packs off after only about 3 hr and 40 min of actual hiking that day.  At Bear Beach we camped on the beach and enjoyed meeting other hikers; a father and his 21 year old daughter, 3 international students from 3 different countries enjoying the Canadian outdoors and being forced to communicate in their only common language, English, and some friendly Sunshine Coasters.  As one 20 something young man walked by, Barb asked with nothing more than motherly concern, "Are you camping alone?" and much to her dismay, the rest of us would not let "Cougar Barb" live this down the rest of the trip.  We enjoyed our communal time around the fire but the wind was quite cold and we were anxious to get to the warmth of our tents. The loud, crashing sounds of the waves lulled me to sleep that night and I awoke to a completely serene ocean with barely a wave in sight.  Barb and Jocelyn on the other hand, awoke to see a bear about 20 meters from their tent.......thus the name of the beach I guess.

Day 2 started at km marker 9 and our destination that day was Chin Beach at km marker 21.  Twelve km, no big deal for this group of seasoned hikers trained on the Vancouver North Shore mountains.  Norvan Falls is 14 km and we can do that with our eyes closed.  To our surprise, this stretch of 12 km felt like 20.  It was slow going, gnarly terrain with about 10 or 11 hills to climb.  After about 6 1/4 hours of hiking we reached our second camping spot feeling pretty spent.

The trails are a friendly place where you greet and speak to everyone you meet.  You are all equals on the trail no matter what your walk of life.  Our common question to those who had come from the other direction and were heading our way: "How are the trails further along?  Does it get easier?  Is it this tough the whole way?"  Well, the answers varied as much as the people giving them.  Some said it got easier, some said harder, one said monotonous and another said the upcoming camp-sites were "fugly".  We didn't know what to think but kept hoping for the best.

                                       


Day 3 began with great discussion.  If we only got to our originally planned destination that day, we were leaving 17 km for our 4th day and risking missing our 5 pm bus back to our vehicles and this would surely make it very difficult to catch a ferry back to the mainland that night.  Plan B was to go an extra 7 km to the next available camping spot.  Could we do it?  What is the terrain going to be like?  We'll have to decide when we get there.  We had barely got going that morning when one careless gal in the group (aka-me) had to stop to fix her seriously leaking hydra pack.  Hmm, yes, they tend to leak when you don't screw the lid on properly.  We hadn't gone far from that little mishap before Barb took a log to the head landing her down on the sand where her eyes had been focused during the painful event.  No major injuries and off we went......although on inspection later, her elbow that she landed on was showing some pretty drastic signs of haematoma.

After 4 hours hiking that we described as treacherous, challenging, tough and hazardous, we came to our lunch spot on Sombria Beach, km marker 28.  We had heard that this was a marvellous place and we were not disappointed. We even found a gorgeous hidden waterfalls.

 It was here at Sombria that Jocelyn discovered her missing camera.  The last picture she took was a km or 2 back.  Arghhh!  We were tired already and no one wanted to backtrack.  But Jocelyn was determined.  She ditched her pack on the beach and headed back to the last bridge she remembered using it at.  To no avail, it wasn't there.  As she started to return to join the rest of us again, she met a couple on the trail.  They agreed to keep their eyes on the lookout for it so Jocelyn gave them her email address.  Since she had been our main photographer, documenting our great adventure, this was a terrible loss; not just for her but for the whole group.  As she walked away from the couple in disappointment, about 5 steps away she saw her camera, hanging by its strap from some branches down at the side of the trail.  Victory!!  The camera was found.  Later on this same evening,  Barb's camera would take a death defying leap off a 30 ft rocky cliff and land in a puddle of water, only to be recovered and then found to be still working on the return home.  There was good karma that day!

After our lovely lunch break at Sombria we hit the trail again for the next 4 km to Little Kutchie Campground where we would decide if we should go on or not.  Along the way, I tripped on a root and my pack, having a mind of its own, decided to take a leftward dive into the bushes off the trail.  There I hung like a turtle on its back trying to right itself.  Jane and Alette rushed to my rescue and pulled my pack so I could return to my feet.  None of us dared look to see what was below those bushes.........we had passed some pretty steep cliffs earlier on.

The terrain continued to be very challenging, very technical.  I concurred with my fellow hiker when Susan said "Thank God for poles!"  Every step was quite diverse; we couldn't understand the one hiker's description of "monotonous".  I once again agreed when Jane said "Never a dull moment."  It was 5pm by the time we reached Little Kutchie; it had taken us 3 hours to go 4 km.  There was no way we could possibly go 7km further so we stopped for the night with the knowledge that we would have to set out at 7am if we were going to catch our bus the next day.  Much to the dismay of the coffee lovers in the group, we banned the stoves from use in the morning to facilitate the early start.  The die-hards had cold coffee in the morning, savouring it as though it were an iced cappuccino from Starbucks.

As we cooked and socialized and "enjoyed" our last night of freeze dried food and last night of tenting in our dark but quaint forest home, we tried to lighten our packs for the last day.  Food eaten is food not carried. Anne encouraged us to eat up all the chocolate she had brought.  She said "Better on your hips than on my back!"

Day 4 (aka Orca Day) We got our early start; 7:15, not bad!  Leaving km marker 33, we had 14 km to get to the end of the JDF Trail and then 3 km into the town of Port Renfrew where we would catch the bus.  We had to keep moving.  We were almost there with no injuries and everyone intact.  Don't stumble now.  Anne coached us on by saying "Lose your focus and your ass will follow".  As we got to the beach at Parkinson (37 km) we saw a  lone orca below the water and we could spot its white markings just below the surface. What a sight to brighten our moods!

 From there it was onward to Payzant Creek Campground where we had hoped to have made it last night.  Our decision had been right.  It would have gotten too dark in those trees after 5 pm and the terrain was still pretty rugged although it was easing up with stretches of "cream" between the harder areas.  Here we had our second orca sighting.  This time a whole pod of them frolicking along the shoreline. 

                                      

We had a quick peek at Providence Cove, leaving our packs up at the trail after great debate whether the bears might get them in the brief time we were down there.  I reasoned that there was only a 1 in 9 chance that the bear would choose my food to eat so I risked it.  We then used our budgeted 15 minutes for lunch on the rocks at Yauh Creek where I heard Barb say "Peanut butter and jam never tasted so good in my whole life!"

Hitting the 40 km marker at Payzant Campground had been our moment of jubilation.  We knew we were going to make it; only 7 km left to finish the trail.  The topography was getting easier and easier and we were making great time. As we approached the Botanical Beach at km 46 Susan could not wait to strip to her undies and swim in the ocean; another of her bucket list items.  The rest of us enjoyed putting our tired feet into the cold, soothing water.

The 1 km out was easy peasy and we finished the trail having hiked 14 km in 6 hours that day.  This had turned out to be a much easier day then we had anticipated when we could not get a consensus from our fellow hikers on how treacherous it was going to be.  We were done and it was only 2pm.

We were going to have time for a burger and beer at the local pub.  I was ecstatic!  This was the moment I had been waiting for.  The flat 3 km walk up the road to Port Renfrew was easy but became even easier when a friendly good Samaritan stopped her panel van and transported all of our packs for us while we walked this last stretch.  That was a big weight off, literally.

In conclusion, this was an incredible experience for me.

Friendship

Camaraderie

                                   

Serenity

Scenic beauty

Wildlife

More wildlife

Here are many examples of the varied terrain:

C

Here are many examples of the beautiful flora of the area:

And here are some examples of the amazing fungi (that everyone thought I was kind of crazy to be photographing):

Lastly, I would like to thank each and every lady that I enjoyed this trip with.  You have each contributed to my thorough enjoyment of this adventure.

To Susan for orchestrating this whole escapade.
To Jocelyn for leading the way.
To Denise for navigating and time keeping.
To Jane for your continuous smile.
To Barb for your ever positive attitude.
To Alette for your entertaining songs on the trail.
To Joanne for your knowledge of the coastal waters.
To Anne for your entertaining sense of humour.

A few last tips for future JDF Backpackers:
Each campsite has a Food Cache that looks like this:

Any time you want to get from the beach to the JDF Trail,  look for an orange ball like this: